Thursday 15 November 2012

Lecture 5: Subculture and Style

Definition: Subculture is more of a movement than a style

Will look at skateboarding, parkour, free running and graffiti and a performance of the city.


Dogtown and Z boys (2001)

Stacy Perralta, used a mixed of original photography at the time. Investigating the Zephyr skate/surfer team, film provides a good history of skateboarding and its roots. Idea of skating being "street surfing". Taking skate into a subculture area/sport where it becomes competitive and sponsorship involved. Finance by Vans.

Using empty swimming pools as a skate area, re-use of existing spaces.





Skater Peggy Oki

No differentiation between male and female attire, more functional than visual. Not a particular feminine aspect.






Ian Borden "Performing the city'

Argues that skating gives the body something to do other than absorbing your surroundings and what's around you. What makes it a subcultural activity. Urban street skating is more 'political' than 1970's skateboarding's use of found terrains: street skating generates new uses that at once work within :9n time and space) negate


Lords of Dogtown (2005)

"Skateboarders do not so much temporarily escape from the routinized world of school family and social conventions and replace it with a whole new way of life." (Borden:2001)




Parkour/Free running
Similar kind of "performance of the city"?

Parkour has maybe more of a sporty element to it than free-running which is maybe more creative and to do with freedom of movement. Parkour originates from France.



Yamakasi (2001)
Free running movie. Free-runners use skills to steel from rich and give to the poor.





Jump London (2005)





Graffiti
Nancy McDonald "The Graffiti Subculture"

Using walls to claim areas. On this liminal terrain you are black, white, rich or poor. Real life issues and divides are put on pause. McDonald writes about this in her book




Black graffiti writer Prime.



Miss Van
McDonald suggests that women come to the subculture laden with the baggage of gender in that their physicality (looks) and her sexuality will be commented on critically in a way that male writers do not experience.






Swoon (US)
Her work is very politically motivated. Works in urban regeneration, does graffiti projects in areas. Uses graffiti as a way for her and for communities to claim back space and to give people some pride










Angela Mc Robbie and Jenny Garber
Girl subcultures may have become more invisible because the term "subculture" has acquired such strong masculine overtones (1977)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subcultural_theory



Motorbike girl

Looking at the female as she appears in the motorbike culture

Brigitte Bardot 1960's.
Suggests sexual deviance which is a fantasy not reflective of reality.


girls tend to be an add-on, not riding the bike, almost just as if they're tagging along. The man's always riding the bike. In this subculture women were either girlfriend of.. or 'mama' figure. Masculinity and femininity in biker culture, this separation separates from mod culture




Mod culture

Springs from working class teenage consumerism in the 60s in the UK

Mod girls wear very similar clothes to Mod boys. Unthreatening 

Teenages girls worked in cities in service industries for example, or in clothing shops where they are encouraged to model the boutique clothing. This meant they had more for socialising and mod rallies.




Quadrophenia (1979)
Accurate description of tension between mods and rockers. Brighton bank holiday weekend culture.

Hebbidge points out about statuses within subcultures




Hippy girl
Mods were usually working class, Hippy girls tended to be middle class, that kind of experience came out of the universities in the 60s and early 70s. Middle class, therefor has the space to explore subbulture for longer before family etc.



http://subkulturer.tumblr.com/

'bad' hippy / 'good' hippy
Good hippy being flower power girl

Bad hippy being rough, leads to own destruction with drugs.



Riot Grrl movement.
Came from music. Underground punk movement based in Washington.



Riot Grrrl
influenced by 70s and 80s punk rockers, such as Patti Smith, Neo Boys, Poly Styrene, The Slits, Kim Gordon

Riot Girl the name comes from something that Jen Smith, band member of Bratmobile. Referring to Mount Pleasant Race Riots in 1991, reaced to the violence by prophetically writing in a letter saying riot girl.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riot_grrrl


To be subcultural an actvitiy maybe has to be political in some way. 

Historical influence from the Dadaists in the 20s and 30s in the graphic design world. Gave women a voice.

Raoul Hausmann - Dada

ABCD Self-Portrait. Juxtaposed two apparently incompatible realities. 



Media attention to Grunge scene

Courtney Love and Hole.

Style without subculture

Distorts even futher as the 90s continue into the more media friendly Spice girls use of phrase "girl power"


distorts when it hits Britian and we get Spice Girls

Presenting visual types that are easily consumable by the target audience.

Very little empowerment in real life but as there is nothing byt the reflection of young women to cartoon representations.





Dick Hebdige: Subculture: The Meaning of Style


Subcultural signs like dress styles and music are turned into mass produced objects. E.g. clothing which is ripped as an anarchic anti-fashion statement becomes mass produced with rips ready made and mass produced





Womens Owen 1977 runs a feature on Punks and mothers smiling reclining next to family pool. Non political threat that will not ultimately disturb political values.




Zanda Rhodes
9ct white gold diamond safety pin brooch

Diamond prevents sharp part of the object, and challenging what you do with it, transforming an objects use in a rebellious statement.

Rhodes safety pin goes mainstream and is turned into "to shock chic" which marks the end of the movement as a subculture





21st century demonisation

Hoodies. A garment associated with lawlessness, what started as a functioning garment has now become demonised and associated with crime. A hood's original function of keeping warm and dry has been replaced with being unidentifiable when committing crime.




Roger Mayne (1956)

Teddy boy culture was an escape from claustrophobia





This is England (2006) Shane Meadows

New kid on estate transforms himself into British skin, part of that transformation is taking on the style of the group.

Dad killed in the Falklands war and his friends become a surrogate family.



Film explores the difference between the skinhead style and the politics of the National Front skins as they infiltrate the workind class estate of the 80s.



The subordinaton of Milky as 'other' by Combo. Can't get his head round Milkys lifestyle compared to to his



Further Research: Angela McRobbie - Girls and Subcultures
Dick Hebdige - Subculture: the meaning of style
Ian Borden: Skateboarding, space and the city





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